thequestingvole
Vassal
Right oh - I'll pause my Crimson Fists project for a bit then. Have to see how yours were done. Splendid work.
Rogue Trader Goodies
- Thread starter bulldoglopez
- Start date
Karak Norn Clansman
Baron
Very nice painting style. Nice models, too.
bulldoglopez
Vassal
@ardyer. It looks like you're pretty handy with a brush yourself!
As promised, here's my Crimson First recipe. I use a mix of Vallejo Model Color and Citadel paints over a black undercoat.
Colors needed:
VMC 70899 - Dark Prussian Blue
VMC 70930 - Dark Blue
VMC 70961 - Sky Blue
Mephiston Red
Evil Sunz Scarlett
Iron Breaker (Boltgun Metal)
Runefang Steel
Black Wash
Ogryn Flesh Wash
Tallarn Fesh (Foundation0
VMC 70927 Dark Flesh
White
German Grey (VMC)
Basalt Grey (VMC)
Over a black base coat apply Dark Prussian Blue to the power armor, Tallarn Flesh to skin, and the rest of the base coats. Exposed flesh is given a wash of Ogryn Flesh, the rest of the model is given a back wash. I go for full coverage, I know i'm creating more work for myself but covering the whole model adds an extra layer to protect the base coat from rubbing off. After the wash dries I apply a light coat of Testors Dullcote. This serves two purposes; first it protects the paint from rubbing off during painting, second the dullcote brings out the color a bit more. As a general rule of thumb I apply a light layer of dullcote after each layer of paint to ensure the paint is protected as much as possible.
Step 3: Reapply the base colors, leaving only the deepest areas of the model alone. For the armor I cover almost everything except the crevices and obvious places where shadows would fall. Dark Prussian Blue is very dark, so you won't see much of a difference between the shaded areas. DULLCOTE.
Step 4: Apply the first layer or highlights. I use about 50/50 Dark Blue/Dark Prussian Blue. I hightlight mixing zenithal highlighting and edge highlighting, you kind of have to use your judgement here. Maybe its 60/40 Dark Blue/Dark Prussian Blue, its better to be darker than lighter here. Flesh is 50/50 Dark Flesh/Tallarn Flesh. DULLCOTE.
Step 5: Apply pure Dark Blue hightlights to the edges of the armor. Use a small brush, but don't make the lines too thin because there is one highight left. Hightlight flesh with pure dark flesh. I like to paint bare arms with strokes that mimic muscle striations. DULLCOTE.
Final Step. Edge highlight with maybe 70/30 Dark Blue/Sky Blue. Sky blue is VERY vivid, so don't over-do it with the sky blue or your marines will end up looking like TRON guys. Its better to go too dark at first because you can always add lighter paint later. Flesh is about 50/50 White/Dark Flesh. Metals are drybrushed, paint the eyes. DULLCOTE.
At this point I would statrt applying and decals or freehand designs, then paint the base. Once the basing is done I varnish with Krylon spray varnish. Hope this was helpful! Happy painting!
As promised, here's my Crimson First recipe. I use a mix of Vallejo Model Color and Citadel paints over a black undercoat.
Colors needed:
VMC 70899 - Dark Prussian Blue
VMC 70930 - Dark Blue
VMC 70961 - Sky Blue
Mephiston Red
Evil Sunz Scarlett
Iron Breaker (Boltgun Metal)
Runefang Steel
Black Wash
Ogryn Flesh Wash
Tallarn Fesh (Foundation0
VMC 70927 Dark Flesh
White
German Grey (VMC)
Basalt Grey (VMC)
Over a black base coat apply Dark Prussian Blue to the power armor, Tallarn Flesh to skin, and the rest of the base coats. Exposed flesh is given a wash of Ogryn Flesh, the rest of the model is given a back wash. I go for full coverage, I know i'm creating more work for myself but covering the whole model adds an extra layer to protect the base coat from rubbing off. After the wash dries I apply a light coat of Testors Dullcote. This serves two purposes; first it protects the paint from rubbing off during painting, second the dullcote brings out the color a bit more. As a general rule of thumb I apply a light layer of dullcote after each layer of paint to ensure the paint is protected as much as possible.
Step 3: Reapply the base colors, leaving only the deepest areas of the model alone. For the armor I cover almost everything except the crevices and obvious places where shadows would fall. Dark Prussian Blue is very dark, so you won't see much of a difference between the shaded areas. DULLCOTE.
Step 4: Apply the first layer or highlights. I use about 50/50 Dark Blue/Dark Prussian Blue. I hightlight mixing zenithal highlighting and edge highlighting, you kind of have to use your judgement here. Maybe its 60/40 Dark Blue/Dark Prussian Blue, its better to be darker than lighter here. Flesh is 50/50 Dark Flesh/Tallarn Flesh. DULLCOTE.
Step 5: Apply pure Dark Blue hightlights to the edges of the armor. Use a small brush, but don't make the lines too thin because there is one highight left. Hightlight flesh with pure dark flesh. I like to paint bare arms with strokes that mimic muscle striations. DULLCOTE.
Final Step. Edge highlight with maybe 70/30 Dark Blue/Sky Blue. Sky blue is VERY vivid, so don't over-do it with the sky blue or your marines will end up looking like TRON guys. Its better to go too dark at first because you can always add lighter paint later. Flesh is about 50/50 White/Dark Flesh. Metals are drybrushed, paint the eyes. DULLCOTE.
At this point I would statrt applying and decals or freehand designs, then paint the base. Once the basing is done I varnish with Krylon spray varnish. Hope this was helpful! Happy painting!
bulldoglopez
Vassal
Oh, and something else I managed to finish up this weeked. A pair of Fast-Star Johns!
I have two more of these to finish plus one Space-Dout Sam. Hopefully I wll be done by the end of this coming week. Color scheme inspired by Boba Fett. Enjoy!
I have two more of these to finish plus one Space-Dout Sam. Hopefully I wll be done by the end of this coming week. Color scheme inspired by Boba Fett. Enjoy!
bulldoglopez
Vassal
ardyer":1g5z9sj5 said:
Generally I use GW's current wash right out of the pot. I have a couple Vallejo Game Color inks that I use from time to time, but for most models its the GW washes.
bulldoglopez
Vassal
Hello everyone,
Its been a few months since I last posted. I've been busy with grad school, but the RT project continues. Here's a little preview of what i'll be finishing up this weekend.
The flag pole is brass rod, the flag is sheet styrene with a hand painted symbol.
Its been a few months since I last posted. I've been busy with grad school, but the RT project continues. Here's a little preview of what i'll be finishing up this weekend.
The flag pole is brass rod, the flag is sheet styrene with a hand painted symbol.
bulldoglopez
Vassal
And then there's this guy:
I saw someone else had named their "fast eddy" so, I figured Evil Eddy was a good choice. Still needs to be based, but I am very happy I finally got around to painting this guy.
I saw someone else had named their "fast eddy" so, I figured Evil Eddy was a good choice. Still needs to be based, but I am very happy I finally got around to painting this guy.
Asslessman
Baron
Excellent ! I saw the episode 6 on TV last week and the helmet the rebels wear in the forest is very close to worldburner's so the link is there from the start...
You have a very distinct paintstyle with plenty of contrast which is a real pleasure to see.
You have a very distinct paintstyle with plenty of contrast which is a real pleasure to see.
Count Von Bruno
Baron
Everything looks brilliant, I really want an old dreadnought now 
bulldoglopez
Vassal
Hello everyone,
Thanks for the great comments! Really appreciate it. Bit of a random post today, but I waned to get this out of the way before I got more stuff done. These are a few things I've painted in the past few months. The Imperial Guard are painted to match John Blanche's theme that was plastered all over White Dwarf issues. I replaced one hand on the Sergeant with a modern chainsword, and his bolt pistol is taken from the hand of a plastic beakie marine. I got them off ebay, and the Medic model has the heart symbol filed off the breastplate, so I figured he would make a good Sergeant. The Rapier was also an ebay find that I got for a bargain because the crewman was missing. I dug the crewman out of the bits box of one of my local stores. How's that for some archaeology?
Here's one of the very old Space Marine releases that I was fortunate enough to dig out of a bits box at a store somewhere, hex base and everything! Tried to emulate the paint style of the late 80's. Not sure if I really captured the feeling, but i'm happy with the result.
Next up is a Chainsaw Warrior! This guy was fun to paint. I actually picked him up a few years ago from ebay and was going to use him with my pirates and mercenaries, but when GW released the digital version of the game I decided to paint him up and stick him in the display case. I didn't want to go overboard on the paint job, but wanted him to have a nice vintage look for my display case.
Finally an Ork Nob, inspired by the warband shown in White Dwarf 134 and 'Ere We Go. I have a handful of RT/2nd ed Orks that I will eventually get around to painting. White Dwarf 134 is the first WD I ever got my hands on as a kid, and I blame that magazine for my obsession. The warband and the story of Ghazkull really encapsulate what I think is the spirit of Oldhammer: characterful models, fun stories, fun gaming (random tables!). One of these days i'll collect an Ork warband.
Thanks for the great comments! Really appreciate it. Bit of a random post today, but I waned to get this out of the way before I got more stuff done. These are a few things I've painted in the past few months. The Imperial Guard are painted to match John Blanche's theme that was plastered all over White Dwarf issues. I replaced one hand on the Sergeant with a modern chainsword, and his bolt pistol is taken from the hand of a plastic beakie marine. I got them off ebay, and the Medic model has the heart symbol filed off the breastplate, so I figured he would make a good Sergeant. The Rapier was also an ebay find that I got for a bargain because the crewman was missing. I dug the crewman out of the bits box of one of my local stores. How's that for some archaeology?
Here's one of the very old Space Marine releases that I was fortunate enough to dig out of a bits box at a store somewhere, hex base and everything! Tried to emulate the paint style of the late 80's. Not sure if I really captured the feeling, but i'm happy with the result.
Next up is a Chainsaw Warrior! This guy was fun to paint. I actually picked him up a few years ago from ebay and was going to use him with my pirates and mercenaries, but when GW released the digital version of the game I decided to paint him up and stick him in the display case. I didn't want to go overboard on the paint job, but wanted him to have a nice vintage look for my display case.
Finally an Ork Nob, inspired by the warband shown in White Dwarf 134 and 'Ere We Go. I have a handful of RT/2nd ed Orks that I will eventually get around to painting. White Dwarf 134 is the first WD I ever got my hands on as a kid, and I blame that magazine for my obsession. The warband and the story of Ghazkull really encapsulate what I think is the spirit of Oldhammer: characterful models, fun stories, fun gaming (random tables!). One of these days i'll collect an Ork warband.
Gareth the Grot
Serf
I'm just embarking on a Laserburn project using mostly RT-era minis so this is grist to my mill! Excellent work.
stone cold lead
Vassal
Lovely stuff there!!!
Count Von Bruno
Baron
I commend you on the checking, especially on the damn kneepads 