My Dark Elf Army (3rd ed, was finished but...) 1.2.2014
- Thread starter pahvivalmiste
- Start date
pahvivalmiste
Vassal
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) 25.3
Thanks for the comments, everyone!
Bug: about the Dragonlord sculpt – it’s not very good. It has a lot of bad angles, it has very thin arms and it’s too small when compared to other Dark Elfs. I think it still looks small, but as it’s alone with the dragon, it goes. My figure also had a casting defect in the face. Ouch. Anyways, thanks for the compliments!
Blue: My “normal” pace is much slower – it’s similar to yours
With this project I had a clear, focused plan from the beginning and I was ready to make compromises (using dip and only a little shades). I’ve learned to cut corners... and the babies are coming 
Idea of Lord’s armour came from the army: I’ve painted some details white in almost all models (skulls, helm ornaments, “skirts” on musicians etc.) and as I’m using a colour limited palette…
Ardyer: I’m dreaming of an army made of current models
Hetz: Chariot was mostly done from an old Wood Elf Chariot model bits. There are also two old Cold Ones, two plastic shields, green stuff and old Elf musician’s horn. Yoke, wheels and sides are from the WE Chariot set (Old front plate was broken and the bottom was too wide – I used green stuff replacements – also meaning that I didn’t have to break anything. I think the “Angel” on my Cauldron of Blood is also from the WE Chariot set. I’ve had these parts and three horses from my childhood).
Edit: Chariot scythes are original pole arm blades of some of my Black Guard conversions.
Thanks for the comments, everyone!
Bug: about the Dragonlord sculpt – it’s not very good. It has a lot of bad angles, it has very thin arms and it’s too small when compared to other Dark Elfs. I think it still looks small, but as it’s alone with the dragon, it goes. My figure also had a casting defect in the face. Ouch. Anyways, thanks for the compliments!
Blue: My “normal” pace is much slower – it’s similar to yours
With this project I had a clear, focused plan from the beginning and I was ready to make compromises (using dip and only a little shades). I’ve learned to cut corners... and the babies are coming Idea of Lord’s armour came from the army: I’ve painted some details white in almost all models (skulls, helm ornaments, “skirts” on musicians etc.) and as I’m using a colour limited palette…
Ardyer: I’m dreaming of an army made of current models
Hetz: Chariot was mostly done from an old Wood Elf Chariot model bits. There are also two old Cold Ones, two plastic shields, green stuff and old Elf musician’s horn. Yoke, wheels and sides are from the WE Chariot set (Old front plate was broken and the bottom was too wide – I used green stuff replacements – also meaning that I didn’t have to break anything. I think the “Angel” on my Cauldron of Blood is also from the WE Chariot set. I’ve had these parts and three horses from my childhood).
Edit: Chariot scythes are original pole arm blades of some of my Black Guard conversions.
stone cold lead
Vassal
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) 25.3
I'm very envious of your work rate. Great to see the army grow.
I'm very envious of your work rate. Great to see the army grow.
airbornegrove26
Baron
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) 25.3
These look awesome!!!
These look awesome!!!
Kalisthenes
Serf
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) 25.3
This army is truly magnificent and a real inspiration. I am going to dig out all of my old dark elves and have a really good long hard look at them... and probably just get intimidated and pack 'em all away again. <sigh>
This army is truly magnificent and a real inspiration. I am going to dig out all of my old dark elves and have a really good long hard look at them... and probably just get intimidated and pack 'em all away again. <sigh>
Citadel Collector
Baron
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) 25.3
How dare you paint a green dragon black
Amazing work - loving it!
How dare you paint a green dragon black
Amazing work - loving it!
Kalisthenes
Serf
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) 25.3
I think I will rather just photograph them and taunt you with them. That way you can shre in my mental anguish.
ardyer":2enwuwdj said:Kalisthenes":2enwuwdj said:
You should probably just send them to me then...you know, for your own mental health
I think I will rather just photograph them and taunt you with them. That way you can shre in my mental anguish.
Thantsants
Baron
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) 25.3
Wow - great stuff! love the Dragon and Manticore riders in particular. Great idea
Wow - great stuff! love the Dragon and Manticore riders in particular. Great idea
pahvivalmiste
Vassal
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) 25.3
Oukie doukie…
I have finished the last six Dark Riders (5 Riders and a Sorceress on horse), which means I’ll declare the project finished. I have a few infantry unpainted but I think this will do with the Dark Elves for now. I’d like to thank everyone for the comments to my previous post, too.
A picture of Dark Riders after dip & matt varnish & bases painted grey (to illustrate how much effort I put into models after dip):
Finished unit:
Different angle:
Finally I made a watchtower… ‘cause every army needs one. After all you never know when you feel like Folding Fortress. The Tower was constructed using a styrox cone, some real rocks and Milliput. It’s a method of construction I do not recommend – very time-consuming. Door is milliput & paper.
Tower:
The whole force:
I’ve also played four casual games of 8th edition and last Sunday I took the army to a my first-ever Warhammer tournament (three more games). Here a a few pictures from there (taken by someone else as you can tell by the quality):
In Battle:
Dark Riders:
Finally I’d like to thank everyone for their interest towards this project!
PS I hope Kalisthenes gets his taunting scheme working
Oukie doukie…
I have finished the last six Dark Riders (5 Riders and a Sorceress on horse), which means I’ll declare the project finished. I have a few infantry unpainted but I think this will do with the Dark Elves for now. I’d like to thank everyone for the comments to my previous post, too.
A picture of Dark Riders after dip & matt varnish & bases painted grey (to illustrate how much effort I put into models after dip):
Finished unit:
Different angle:
Finally I made a watchtower… ‘cause every army needs one. After all you never know when you feel like Folding Fortress. The Tower was constructed using a styrox cone, some real rocks and Milliput. It’s a method of construction I do not recommend – very time-consuming. Door is milliput & paper.
Tower:
The whole force:
I’ve also played four casual games of 8th edition and last Sunday I took the army to a my first-ever Warhammer tournament (three more games). Here a a few pictures from there (taken by someone else as you can tell by the quality
):In Battle:
Dark Riders:
Finally I’d like to thank everyone for their interest towards this project!
PS I hope Kalisthenes gets his taunting scheme working
Blue in VT
Baron
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) Fini
They look great and have been a real inspiration for me to explore this path for getting troops on the table. I'm hoping to get to a store soon that carries the Dip so I can start experimenting with my green skins and beastmen.
Cheers,
Blue
They look great and have been a real inspiration for me to explore this path for getting troops on the table. I'm hoping to get to a store soon that carries the Dip so I can start experimenting with my green skins and beastmen.
Cheers,
Blue
pahvivalmiste
Vassal
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) Fini
Thanks, Blue! Your comments are among the ones that have enlightened my artificial light during long hours of painting Anyways, I'm glad if this project has served as a source of inspiration.
I'd like to experiment speedpainting with inks (light base + ink + maybe highlight) if I do another army besides this and my dwarfs some day. Dipping was interesting but I think I still had to put a lot of effort to the models to make them look satisfactory. Beastmen might be a very good canditate for brown dip - I was thinking about them as an option for the next army as well. I hope I'll see more of your painted and dipped models in the future
Thanks, Blue! Your comments are among the ones that have enlightened my artificial light during long hours of painting
Anyways, I'm glad if this project has served as a source of inspiration.I'd like to experiment speedpainting with inks (light base + ink + maybe highlight) if I do another army besides this and my dwarfs some day. Dipping was interesting but I think I still had to put a lot of effort to the models to make them look satisfactory. Beastmen might be a very good canditate for brown dip - I was thinking about them as an option for the next army as well. I hope I'll see more of your painted and dipped models in the future
Naagruz
Vassal
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) Fini
Great looking force all around! A real pleasure to see it come together.
Something to think about for later projects would be to use zenithal undercoating & then use middleweight washes to color pre-dip. That might shortcut some of the post-dip highlighting.
I've used Minwax & Army painter and found zero difference except that Army Painter costs far more.
Great looking force all around! A real pleasure to see it come together.
Something to think about for later projects would be to use zenithal undercoating & then use middleweight washes to color pre-dip. That might shortcut some of the post-dip highlighting.
Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware; there are a multitude of stores likely near you to choose from! Welcome to the wonderful world of Minwax !Blue in VT":2zfve05u said:
I've used Minwax & Army painter and found zero difference except that Army Painter costs far more.
Blue in VT
Baron
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) Fini
Which minwax colors would you use to replace AP Strong Tone and Dark Tone?
I'm fully aware of AP's policy of relabeling another companies product and charging 4x as much for it....like the tufts they sell....but for this I would want to be sure that the "generic" alternative is really as effective as the AP version...You really see no Difference?
Interesting...so you are not sure you would do it again? Have you tried the AP inks? I don't know if you are familiar with this blokes video but he makes his own washes and inks in big batches...may be a more cost effective way to "wash" whole units compared to buying lots of little bottles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEkMnP6p ... A&index=10
Cheers,
Blue
Which minwax colors would you use to replace AP Strong Tone and Dark Tone?
I'm fully aware of AP's policy of relabeling another companies product and charging 4x as much for it....like the tufts they sell....but for this I would want to be sure that the "generic" alternative is really as effective as the AP version...You really see no Difference?
pahvivalmiste":mqur6ys8 said:
Interesting...so you are not sure you would do it again? Have you tried the AP inks? I don't know if you are familiar with this blokes video but he makes his own washes and inks in big batches...may be a more cost effective way to "wash" whole units compared to buying lots of little bottles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEkMnP6p ... A&index=10
Cheers,
Blue
Thantsants
Baron
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) Fini
I must say they look great in the field of battle!
Nice work on the Dark Riders and towers too.
I must say they look great in the field of battle!
Nice work on the Dark Riders and towers too.
pahvivalmiste
Vassal
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) Fini
Thanks for the comments! Maybe I’ll now have time to comment other peoples postings too (I feel guilty about my lack of posting other peoples threads sometimes)
ardryer: I guess your wife appreciates your money more than your time?
Anyways, get your project going!
Naagruz: Zenithal highlighting is an interesting idea. I’m not sure how it would work due to the dip giving an uniform shade, but it might. On a second thought I should probably have used slightly lighter colours to get the “intented” shading effect of the dip more visible. I used "Army Painter" cause it was readily available in local gaming store.
Blue: I’m really not really sure. The most tempting things are that I might be able to work faster with the dip and that I’d be able to use better (slightly lighter) base colours to reduce highlighting (this amount of course also depends on the quality standard one sets). The durability of the dip is also very good thing in for tabletob use.
The thing that makes me reluctant towards the use of dip is that the quality achievable with it and my painting skills only goes so far. I also don’t like (working with) the pouring effect. The mess it’s use causes can also be a problem with my confined living space (for wife and kids, I’m an old collateral abuser of synthetic glue).
Finally I think the results of dipping are (now), perhaps, predictable. This can be good or bad Although I'd be interested in testing the brown version on Beastmen or Undead.
Thantsants: Thanks! My army won "Best Painted" and I also won one of the three games
Thanks for the comments! Maybe I’ll now have time to comment other peoples postings too (I feel guilty about my lack of posting other peoples threads sometimes)
ardryer: I guess your wife appreciates your money more than your time?
Anyways, get your project going!Naagruz: Zenithal highlighting is an interesting idea. I’m not sure how it would work due to the dip giving an uniform shade, but it might. On a second thought I should probably have used slightly lighter colours to get the “intented” shading effect of the dip more visible. I used "Army Painter" cause it was readily available in local gaming store.
Blue: I’m really not really sure. The most tempting things are that I might be able to work faster with the dip and that I’d be able to use better (slightly lighter) base colours to reduce highlighting (this amount of course also depends on the quality standard one sets). The durability of the dip is also very good thing in for tabletob use.
The thing that makes me reluctant towards the use of dip is that the quality achievable with it and my painting skills only goes so far. I also don’t like (working with) the pouring effect. The mess it’s use causes can also be a problem with my confined living space (for wife and kids, I’m an old collateral abuser of synthetic glue).
Finally I think the results of dipping are (now), perhaps, predictable. This can be good or bad
Although I'd be interested in testing the brown version on Beastmen or Undead.Thantsants: Thanks! My army won "Best Painted" and I also won one of the three games
Naagruz
Vassal
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) Fini
I prefer Polyshades because the product is consistent & you can thin it with white spirits or lay it on for bulletproof end productness. Another point; never actually "dip" with a dip. Use a brush.
It might be comforting to know that folks were dipping with Minwax long before the guys at AP decided to capitalize on it. Early on, AP actually posted that Quick Shade was an oil-based stain, but later pulled that description off their site.
And yes, no difference...and I still can't believe people actually buy tufts.
Antique Walnut(ap strong) & Tudor(ap dark) from the Minwax Polyshades line. They have equivalents in the oil-based Wood Finish line as well (English Chestnut & Jacobean).Blue in VT":jvyfdndz said:
I prefer Polyshades because the product is consistent & you can thin it with white spirits or lay it on for bulletproof end productness. Another point; never actually "dip" with a dip. Use a brush.
It might be comforting to know that folks were dipping with Minwax long before the guys at AP decided to capitalize on it. Early on, AP actually posted that Quick Shade was an oil-based stain, but later pulled that description off their site.
And yes, no difference...and I still can't believe people actually buy tufts.
Blue in VT
Baron
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) Fini
Alright...thanks to both for your thoughts. If the minwax is a good alternative I may be able to give this a try ASAP....the hobby store is 60 min away...the hardware store just down the street.. Plus the price will allow me to get both colors and give it a try.
As for tufts...I just based up 30 guys last night and I can't even imagine what it would have taken to make tufts for
Each of them...if you buy them in bulk from the source they aren't that expensive and they look great...in this case I'll pay a little extra to
Save on my precious hobby time.
Cheers,
Blue
Alright...thanks to both for your thoughts. If the minwax is a good alternative I may be able to give this a try ASAP....the hobby store is 60 min away...the hardware store just down the street.
. Plus the price will allow me to get both colors and give it a try.As for tufts...I just based up 30 guys last night and I can't even imagine what it would have taken to make tufts for
Each of them...if you buy them in bulk from the source they aren't that expensive and they look great...in this case I'll pay a little extra to
Save on my precious hobby time.
Cheers,
Blue
ardyer
Baron
Re: My speed-painted Dark Elf Army (3rd edition models) Fini
If you've ever met me in person, that would be an easy thing to understand
A couple have arrived so far and I hope to get to working on some in between some dwarf stuff I want to finish. Just can't decide how I want to do the flesh. Either way, pics will be posted so enough.
pahvivalmiste":lyabsukm said:ardryer: I guess your wife appreciates your money more than your time?
If you've ever met me in person, that would be an easy thing to understand
A couple have arrived so far and I hope to get to working on some in between some dwarf stuff I want to finish. Just can't decide how I want to do the flesh. Either way, pics will be posted so enough.