Michaels 25mm WFB Stuff...

Well nothing is quite to scale in wargaming. I think a small boat/raft would still be really nice. You could (now the resin/varnish is sorted) cut down the mud banks a bit and have the boat mostly out of the water so it doesn't look to cross the entire river in one go! Suitably angling it and having it build only really for two would probably do it!
 
Well nothing is quite to scale in wargaming. I think a small boat/raft would still be really nice. You could (now the resin/varnish is sorted) cut down the mud banks a bit and have the boat mostly out of the water so it doesn't look to cross the entire river in one go! Suitably angling it and having it build only really for two would probably do it!

I will have to ponder. I am trying with this to make it WYSIWYG. On the plus side I did also want to build a wooden bridge.
 
very interesting, but useful since my current project calls for a river. I have never heard of "wet-wipe dabbing"? do you wait until it is half cured?

I have seen people on you tube do one of 3 things.

1) pour epoxy, let it cure flat, then grind with a dremel and rotary file. This is obviously very messy, and you need a good mask to protect your lungs. You also need to come back and hit the whole thing with Gloss clear to get rid of the cloudy grinding results= no thanks
2) pour epoxy flat, then cover with a hobby specific water effect that is thicker and kind of poke and prod it into the amount of ripples you want. This is worth trying, i think my water-fall effect is this stuff and it looks convincing. Might need a bigger bottle
3) pour epoxy flat and cover with Modge-podge (PVA stuff sold here in US), then use a blow dryer on low heat to blow waves and ripples into the glue, which dries clear. Not sure about this one, sounds sketchy to be blow drying around fragile, finished metal models.

I almost never do tests, buy my project calls for a number of mounted horsemen . Models that took a hella lot of of time to paint (and weren't cheap to buy) charging thru the river with splash effects. So i can't gamble this time around , but i would be happy to get the results Michael got. My river will be more of a clear stream though, i want the rocks, river gravels etc. to be fully visible.
 
So the Vallejo Still water is not an epoxy as I understand the term.
It is an air curing liquid of some sort. No mixing or anything.
Let it drip out of the nozzle. It feels like a paint?

I poured maybe 1 to 1.5mm and after about 90 minutes it had gone from liquid to thick gloop.
At this stage it pretty much holds its shape once manipulated.
(Temperature Dependent I Guess.)
Wet Wipes, or what I actually used, Moist Toilet Roll, sort of dab the now tacky water into ripples.

If you want something deep.
I would use still water and let it cure/dry flat. Don't touch it.
Once properly properly dry, add varnish or gloss Mod Podge in a thin layer to get the ripples.
As per no. 2. I used GW ardcoat in the end as it seems less flowy than Mod Podge and thus easier to work into ripples.

There is no heat reaction and it is sort of rubbery when cured.
 
Hi @Michael Stockin

I've been steadily working my way through this thread from the beginning. Top quality work and very inspiring. I don't have an actual games table or any scenery because we're trying to move house at the moment but yours looks lovely and perfectly sized for normal sized battles.

Incidentally I really like the river, its got plenty of colour to it. @Brother Meredith is absolutely correct about the juxtaposition of bridges and fords. Bridges were often used as a convenient places to charge a toll for the upkeep of the road/bridge/general taxation etc so a toll cottage could be a fun addition.
 
I think a cheapo wooden bridge is in order.

So it came to pass.

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But wood?
Yes, it is cheap there are plenty of trees about.

But a wooden bridge is easily destroyed?
So it wood seem.

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