MichaelStockin
Lord
That is brilliant, thank you!
Loved the other topic and great buildings in there too!
Loved the other topic and great buildings in there too!
[Warfork Fantasy Battles] New Year's resolutions 2025 - The Battle for Arduthrond Glade
- Thread starter KingOfTheLeadPile
- Start date
Slave to Darkness
Baron
What's an EM-4 Orc? They look heroquesty, I kinda like the goofy teeth.
KingOfTheLeadPile
Baron
ManicMan
Lord
yeah, Em4 do some nice figures, alot of them ex-Grenadier plastics and metals. They aren't bad. as the plastics are kinda early 90s, they are a little soft in places but really REALLY cheap and great for army building or customising. The sci-fi ones are far less monopose then the fantasy
Fimm McCool
Lord
They're from the Fantasy Warriors boxed game Grenadier released.
Slave to Darkness
Baron
I had some of those knock off marines they sell as a kid, some of the metal sci fi minis I had as well, the colonial marine looking ones and the space cops (guardsmen and commissar proxies). Now I can replace stuff I've lost over the years.
The plastic gangers they sell look tempting for Necromunda, and those orcs are offensively cheap it would be rude for me to not buy some.
The plastic gangers they sell look tempting for Necromunda, and those orcs are offensively cheap it would be rude for me to not buy some.
MichaelStockin
Lord
I bought some for a guy at the gaming club late last year and gave them to him to entice him into WFB 3rd edition.
We have played 4 games so far with them.
ManicMan
Lord
Was it the dwarfs that came after the fact to be in the same style? or the halfings? I though dwarf were the first lot but probebly wrong with that ^_^
Slave to Darkness
Baron
Looks like they are having a sale, some of those plastics were not on offer and hour ago.
Brother Meredith
Lord
Beat me to it…
Attachments
Fimm McCool
Lord
The boxed set was dwarfs vs orcs
ManicMan
Lord
fair enough ^_^
KingOfTheLeadPile
Baron
I had a way of painting the greenskins in mind for some time now for this project. The method is heavily inspired by Marco Frisoni. When I happened to win the Umbra Turris Giveaway, I thought this couple model of orcs is the ideal test group to see of this method will work, and will be a quick one suitable for army painting.
Checking my color wheel for the color opposite Golden High Flow - #528 Green Gold (which I intend to use as the main 'Goblin Green' skin color), I mixed a purple of 1:1 Molotow #233 purple violet and Molotow #043 violet dark.
With this purple tone I airbrushed the miniatures both as an undercoat as well as an undertone, the reason why I did not choose my normal black.
Over the purple, I airbrushed a zenithal with Daler Rowney Ink #011 White.
As said before, the main skin color is Golden High Flow - #528 Green Gold, which I thinned 1:1 with Golden Airbrush Transparent Extender. When sprayed on, the zenithal still shows through, providing the first level of color modulation. Here is also the reason for the purple rather than black basecoat.
From below, in a nadiral layer (is that the correct opposite word of zenithal...?), I airbrushed a darker green, Golden High Flow #577 Phtalo Green (Yellow Shade), thinned 1:4 with the extender medium.
For the highlight color to really pop, I added another white zenithal from directly above the minis, and some choosen spots (like when directly from above did not hit the face enough, or the belly).
The final layer then was a 1:4 mix of Golden High Flow #587 Light Green (Yellow Shade) and extender medium.
Although I will follow with a green or green/violet oil wash, I already like the result, which could almost be enough for rank and file goblins; especially considering the little time it took. For character models I will certainly brush on highlights after the wash, but I think this will be my general approach to paint the Arduthrond Goblin force.
For this Umbra Turris warband, I will certainly add a lot of brushwork hightlights, after all these are all character models, given the low amount of minis in the game, and them being all different personalities.
Checking my color wheel for the color opposite Golden High Flow - #528 Green Gold (which I intend to use as the main 'Goblin Green' skin color), I mixed a purple of 1:1 Molotow #233 purple violet and Molotow #043 violet dark.
With this purple tone I airbrushed the miniatures both as an undercoat as well as an undertone, the reason why I did not choose my normal black.
Over the purple, I airbrushed a zenithal with Daler Rowney Ink #011 White.
As said before, the main skin color is Golden High Flow - #528 Green Gold, which I thinned 1:1 with Golden Airbrush Transparent Extender. When sprayed on, the zenithal still shows through, providing the first level of color modulation. Here is also the reason for the purple rather than black basecoat.
From below, in a nadiral layer (is that the correct opposite word of zenithal...?), I airbrushed a darker green, Golden High Flow #577 Phtalo Green (Yellow Shade), thinned 1:4 with the extender medium.
For the highlight color to really pop, I added another white zenithal from directly above the minis, and some choosen spots (like when directly from above did not hit the face enough, or the belly).
The final layer then was a 1:4 mix of Golden High Flow #587 Light Green (Yellow Shade) and extender medium.
Although I will follow with a green or green/violet oil wash, I already like the result, which could almost be enough for rank and file goblins; especially considering the little time it took. For character models I will certainly brush on highlights after the wash, but I think this will be my general approach to paint the Arduthrond Goblin force.
For this Umbra Turris warband, I will certainly add a lot of brushwork hightlights, after all these are all character models, given the low amount of minis in the game, and them being all different personalities.
KingOfTheLeadPile
Baron
The last part missing for the goblins of this project are the goblin fanatics. I was looking around for some time to find fanatics that match with the Mirliton range (which do not offer fanatics), but didn't find any that wouldn't look too different for my liking.
So I have to build my own.
I ordered two more packs of spearmen from Mirliton's Goblin range, 6 of which I hope are in a pose that allows for relative easy conversions. The other four can bolster the spear units.
After some furios cutting and drilling, I used paper clips as the basis for the chains, pushing it through holes I drilled into the goblin's hands. The models were mounted on metal bases from Products for Wargamers. For the actual balls, I used wooden beads.
Just a bit more green stuffing required...
So I have to build my own.
I ordered two more packs of spearmen from Mirliton's Goblin range, 6 of which I hope are in a pose that allows for relative easy conversions. The other four can bolster the spear units.
After some furios cutting and drilling, I used paper clips as the basis for the chains, pushing it through holes I drilled into the goblin's hands. The models were mounted on metal bases from Products for Wargamers. For the actual balls, I used wooden beads.
Just a bit more green stuffing required...
MichaelStockin
Lord
Love this approach.
KingOfTheLeadPile
Baron
With a blob of greenstuff, I added lengths of chain to each wolf. They will be used to attach the wolves to the chariot, being the means they will be pulling it with. As I intend to paint the wolves seperately, the chains will remain loose like this until everything is painted and is getting assembled.
I also added the metal bar from the belt buckle to every wolf, as well as more 'nails' to the metal banding on the chariot. When checking how the chains would attach to the chariot, the metal ring on the chariot was too far forward. The chains would have gone nearly straight up, didn't look like there was any pull on them. So I moved the metal ring back to the next metal band.
I also finished the figure head on the front of the chariot.
I also added the metal bar from the belt buckle to every wolf, as well as more 'nails' to the metal banding on the chariot. When checking how the chains would attach to the chariot, the metal ring on the chariot was too far forward. The chains would have gone nearly straight up, didn't look like there was any pull on them. So I moved the metal ring back to the next metal band.
I also finished the figure head on the front of the chariot.
Brother Meredith
Lord
Super meticulous!
KingOfTheLeadPile
Baron
Sculpting is hard... I was trying to get the paperclips look like chains. The first attempt was the goblin on the left, where my approach was to put greenstuff around the paperclip and press it flat, then press in indendations. This way I had all the chain links in one plane, missing the connecting links which are turned 90° to them. The missing links will be added once this layer is cured. The result looked somewhat like I had envisaged, but it seemed too thick overall.
So with the goblin on the right, I tried to start with only a quarter of the final chain, laying a thin piece of greenstuff over the wire and making the indendations for the chain links. This allowed me to see the wire all the time, making sure the greenstuff was as thin as possible on top. The plan here is to add the lower part of the chain once that layer has cured. This will give me a firm base to work against, hopefully also allowing me to keep the overal chain quite thin.
Here is the second step. The one on the left has a complete chain, which looks way too crude and thick. The one on the left only has half the chain done, but looks much better concerning the size of he chain, in my oppinion.
While googling for how to sculpt chains, I found an article on DakkaDakka, and followed it. This approach wraps the paper clip in green stuff as thinly as possible. First challenge: merging the two loose ends. When you press them together, you press them through the wire, or at least make the green stuff on the other side of the wire thicker. So I tried to pull the greenstuff sideways into the other end... need to improve on that. Then you score four grooves along the length of the wire, so that the cross-section looks like it is named - a cross. Into the four ridges, you then press indendations to form the chain links.
Disregarding the issue of merging the two ends of the greenstuff, I think I like this approach the most, so far. This chain nearly turned out too thin, though...
Sculpting is hard...
So with the goblin on the right, I tried to start with only a quarter of the final chain, laying a thin piece of greenstuff over the wire and making the indendations for the chain links. This allowed me to see the wire all the time, making sure the greenstuff was as thin as possible on top. The plan here is to add the lower part of the chain once that layer has cured. This will give me a firm base to work against, hopefully also allowing me to keep the overal chain quite thin.
Here is the second step. The one on the left has a complete chain, which looks way too crude and thick. The one on the left only has half the chain done, but looks much better concerning the size of he chain, in my oppinion.
While googling for how to sculpt chains, I found an article on DakkaDakka, and followed it. This approach wraps the paper clip in green stuff as thinly as possible. First challenge: merging the two loose ends. When you press them together, you press them through the wire, or at least make the green stuff on the other side of the wire thicker. So I tried to pull the greenstuff sideways into the other end... need to improve on that. Then you score four grooves along the length of the wire, so that the cross-section looks like it is named - a cross. Into the four ridges, you then press indendations to form the chain links.
Disregarding the issue of merging the two ends of the greenstuff, I think I like this approach the most, so far. This chain nearly turned out too thin, though...
Sculpting is hard...
MichaelStockin
Lord
That looks like a right nightmare. I think I would have used real chain with very fine wire threaded through it and then superglued it all. Not as strong as your method but thinner. For balls maybe small polystyrene ones due to weight?
KingOfTheLeadPile
Baron
So you would have taken the easy way out
I thought of that first, too, but didn't trust it to hold, especially for the goblin that is not on the base at all and only held up by the chain.
I even looked for lead balls, as there are two goblins which tended to fall over when not completely flat, so I needed the weight of the ball as counter weight.