Something stealing my mind…?

Rivets can be added to the armour plating by carefully slicing up sections of thin plastic rod or sprue and sticking the resulting small disks to the tank. These are best picked up and positioned using the point of a modelling knife. After the rivets have dried on the model, a light sanding will round the edges slightly.
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From the Baneblade instructions in White Dwarf 132 by Tony Cottrell. I have not tried this.
 
I have. It's a decent technique but you end up with quite chunky rivets. You can also drill small holes and push in dressmaking pins so the heads stand out as rivets. My favourite, though, is using little dabs of Vallejo plastic putty. With a bit of practice you can get them small and regular.
 
I have a set of 3D transfers for rivets. Now I don't think mine are from a brand that still exists, but I did find https://www.railtectransfers.com.c0033118.myzen.co.uk/rivets.php in a quick search.

I also quite often do exactly what Fimm suggests and use the plastic putty to make mine. Obviously wouldn't work in this case, but in thin plasticard you can often just push from the back to make a reasonable dent in the front as fair rivet.
 
Ceramic filter balls
I haven't gotten any photos yet (for a couple of reasons) but got that load from @Eric for try out and they are REALLY useful for small bits like nail heads, and I've just recently used them as buttons on a figure's front. Being there is also a small range in sizes, really good to use.

not if you want to do a hex bolt or something, but anything that is small and round, or even, you can glue them and then cut in half or so (or file them down a bit), they are useful
 
Eric said:
I have a set of 3D transfers for rivets. Now I don't think mine are from a brand that still exists, but I did find https://www.railtectransfers.com.c0033118.myzen.co.uk/rivets.php in a quick search.

I also quite often do exactly what Fimm suggests and use the plastic putty to make mine. Obviously wouldn't work in this case, but in thin plasticard you can often just push from the back to make a reasonable dent in the front as fair rivet.
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Thanks for that suggestion, going to give them a go!

The sprue and putty options are either too chunky or subtle. These should be uniform and evenly spaced.

Saw a tutorial online using several coats of PVA dabs too, but again that looks too subtle for Warhammer! ;)

Filter balls sounds really fiddley for my sausage fingers…
 
I'd forgotten about them - probably still have some in my basing boxes if you want any. Otherwise I've just found my transfer sheet and the set I have is this one https://www.archertransfers.com/products/bridge-rivets-o-scale. They do various other ones at various scales along with some other interesting decals. Anyhow they are not hugely raised - I mean think like you'd find on model aircraft kit - things like that. Which if you're "texturing" is probably enough.
 
You can also use a "rivet wheel" to press dents into sheet styrene to create rivets. That's the old model railroading way. (Maybe it already came up.) You have to use lighter sheet, of course, but you can then glue that onto a heavier sheet to give it structure.
 
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