Help with painting fur

I'll be honest, I absolutely love GW's Wraith Bone contrast spray primer, anything that's not a vehicle gets undercoated in it these days. It's a nice neutral but warm base coat that pretty much any colour goes over, and it's a great surface to paint on.
 
dieselmonkey, what's your opinion on that contrast primer compared to Chaos Black and Corax White. Surface difference or it's about colour? I was thinking about to buying it but then they said it's for contrast paints so I was wondering is there difference in surface. I imagine that this primer that you using got more bite so to say.
 
If memory serves from when GW were launching the Contrast paints the primers were off-white primarily because it allowed for finer pigments to be used and allowed for a smoother surface - which the Contrast paints (ideally) required to flow nicely. I think one is a warmer tone and the other cooler depending on the tone you want in your highlights. Not used them myself so I don't know what they are like to paint over (Vallejo polyurethane primers are my goto generally).
 
Old Hob":16mt5u7o said:
I undercoat with black acrylic. Probably not the most conducive colour for spotting the mould lines I guess. ;)
Honestly, I'm still mostly winging it on what I can remember from 1991, and I know miniature paints and painting have moved on significantly since then, so I really do appreciate your advice. Maybe a pre-undercoat wash for spotting mould lines would do the trick?
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I suppose I might be in the minority, but I still use a black undercoat myself. Given that I remove mold lines before I paint I have to assume that no matter what color I slop on the bottom there's a possibility that there will be mold lines I missed and that they'll pop up as I'm painting. It doesn't happen too often, but when it does I break out the file, clean them off, and repaint the relevant spot on the miniature. That said, if mold lines are turning out to be a bugbear maybe drybrushing everything with a light neutral color before you go to town with the rainbow would help spot any errant mold lines that escaped the pre-painting pass.
 
I tried contrast and must admit that I had trouble with them. They looked like inks that GW used to have and I had troubles with them also but I don't think contrast have same pigment load. GW paints are strange acrylics to start with alone not to mention shades and contrasts. They work very nice and effortless on modern plastics but on old metal, not that much. Sculpting advanced completely. I mean, I don't think that anybody would have any kind problems with yesterdays fur, but fur from 80s or 90s, that's something else, but I drift away and typing something that nobody asked for :grin: I use black undercoat also, black gives nice space for shading with one colour and you don't need to paint every spot. OK, light undercoat with washes do the trick for less accessible parts.

On the fur point, I think would be good idea to wash finished fur with earth tones just to give depth and then pin point parts with high lights here and there. For black fur and similar ( or black cloth ) I use agrax shade so it gives dirty look and depth, also, here and there black back.
 
Loose Loser":36e73ey7 said:
dieselmonkey, what's your opinion on that contrast primer compared to Chaos Black and Corax White. Surface difference or it's about colour?
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Both. The Wraithbone is a great neutral colour to work up from, but it's 'warmer' than the standard grey primer I used to use. It's also got a nice, consistent smooth matte surface that any paint (not just contrast paints) stick to easily.
 
Oh nice, because sometimes primers tends not to hold paint much, specially on metal models. Of course not able to see with eye but some primers even that they seems to have smooth surface they got more bite then those that appears rough. Will try out that primer.
 
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