Greenstuff alternative for goat faces...?

Citadel Collector

Citadel Collector

Baron
Right chaps, thinking-caps on. I need an alternative to greenstuff that's softer but still sets hard and keeps good detail. I've decided for my Oldhammer chaos warbands challenge - which requires me to have cultists with goat faces - to do an imprint of a goat-faced beastman in some siligum (following the lead on http://forum.oldhammer.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=1534&hilit=venator) and fill the mould with something like greenstuff and stick it to the faces of the cultists when its dry. But greenstuff is proving a nightmare - too firm and I'm struggling to push it into the tiny mould created from the beastman faces.

So any other suggestions? What about fimo? I'd like something that:

- is very malleable
- retains surface detail with little shrinkage when it sets (don't want to lose an already small goat face!)
- ideally is air-drying rather than having to bake in an over

cheers
Steve
 
I like procreate. It's also known as grey stuff and you can choose how soft or hard depending on the proportions of the two elements mixed.
 
Can't beat Millput for value for money, alittle messy and sticky (Keep all fingers and tools wet when using) but it's what I use when push moulding
 
Citadel Collector":27o95qg7 said:
I'll give procreate a try. Milliput is just SOOOOO 1970s' ;)

Any other products that people have tried?
Click to expand...

Arrrh to modern for you then lol ;) :lol:
 
Maybe you're mixing your GS wrong? Give it a little more yellow and knead it properly. Cold GS is firmer than warm. Also, it might be your GS is too old. You need fresh GS for proper modeling.
 
phreedh":3ntzu8j0 said:
Maybe you're mixing your GS wrong? Give it a little more yellow and knead it properly. Cold GS is firmer than warm. Also, it might be your GS is too old. You need fresh GS for proper modeling.
Click to expand...

I bought a strip of it from ebay a few days ago and mixed it 50/50. Wasn't cold to start with but was a bit firm. Perhaps it wasn't that "fresh"?
 
I've just tried taking some samples of faces with green stuff and it works a treat. I think you should change the siligum, it is absolutely perfect if you plan on making resin or lead castings but if you want to pressmould faces, I'd go with instant mould / Oyumaru, it is stiff enough to take greenstuff and you can reuse it an unilimited number of times. I tried that once 2 days ago and I succeeded the first time (thanks to Cheetor/shoebox' advices).
 
I've used Apoxiesculpt to good effect. It is softer than greenstuff and has a longer working time. I'm not sure about fine detail though.

I have some Oyumaru coming in the mail to pressmould some masks to hang from the branches of my citadel trees. I'll try it with the Apoxiesculpt and let you know.
 
Asslessman":1fgywdgp said:
I've just tried taking some samples of faces with green stuff and it works a treat. I think you should change the siligum, it is absolutely perfect if you plan on making resin or lead castings but if you want to pressmould faces, I'd go with instant mould / Oyumaru, it is stiff enough to take greenstuff and you can reuse it an unilimited number of times. I tried that once 2 days ago and I succeeded the first time (thanks to Cheetor/shoebox' advices).
Click to expand...

Is there a particular advantage of Oyumaru over siligum though? I ask that because I've already bought the siligum.
 
Have you considered using a two part casting epoxy resin? Coz if you've got a mould then it would be perfect. Just pour it in & after it cures you've got yourself a hard plastic goat face!

I've cast up miniatures in the past with this stuff and I've been really pleased with the results.
 
optimus":20k0zvvy said:
Have you considered using a two part casting epoxy resin? Coz if you've got a mould then it would be perfect. Just pour it in & after it cures you've got yourself a hard plastic goat face!

I've cast up miniatures in the past with this stuff and I've been really pleased with the results.
Click to expand...

How well does it retain detail?
 
Citadel Collector":222fhclh said:
Asslessman":222fhclh said:
I've just tried taking some samples of faces with green stuff and it works a treat. I think you should change the siligum, it is absolutely perfect if you plan on making resin or lead castings but if you want to pressmould faces, I'd go with instant mould / Oyumaru, it is stiff enough to take greenstuff and you can reuse it an unilimited number of times. I tried that once 2 days ago and I succeeded the first time (thanks to Cheetor/shoebox' advices).
Click to expand...

Is there a particular advantage of Oyumaru over siligum though? I ask that because I've already bought the siligum.
Click to expand...
Having used both, I can say siligum is very flexible so when yuo pressanything in it you just deform it. Oyumaru is far much firm (think of tyre rubber) so you can press stiff greenstuff in it without dforming it too much.
I'd say yuo either have to replace GS or siligum. You can find uses for both so none is wasted. Silgum is absiutely perfect to make good moulds to cast resin, lead or even plaster in it. Green stuff, well yo uknow what to do with this ;)
If you keep siligum I suggest casting resin or lead in it but the moulds you'll make to make faces won't be big enough to have a good casting (you either need to spin moulds or to have a lot of lead to avoid bubbles...
For faces, I really suggest instant mould + green stuff :

I used this tuto from Cheetor and it worked the first time : http://sho3box.wordpress.com/2012/02/29 ... d-casting/
Mr Saturday has a nice one IIRC

optimus":222fhclh said:
Have you considered using a two part casting epoxy resin? Coz if you've got a mould then it would be perfect. Just pour it in & after it cures you've got yourself a hard plastic goat face!

I've cast up miniatures in the past with this stuff and I've been really pleased with the results.
Click to expand...

It could work but you need to make sure to chase any air bubble in recesses with a toothpick, it's quite a pain ...
 
Citadel Collector":1xl214vs said:
Naagruz":1xl214vs said:
Mix milliput/magic sculpt with Kneadatite.
Click to expand...

That sounds like alchemy to this poor inexperienced soul :? :oops:
Click to expand...
It only sounds dangerous, honest! You get the tackiness that milliput lacks & the details hold well. I've never done press moulds with it, but I expect it's going to work fine.

Instant Mold = marked up oyumaru. It's the same stuff, but you can get oyumaru in a rainbow of colors. :grin:
 
I think another option would be to first put in a layer of liquid green stuff to capture the detail and then back that up with normal green stuff.

Blue
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top