Getting back into painting

Getting back into this after 40yrs. I have some questions as I get going. I plan on using Tamiya paint as that's what I used and I liked how things turned out.

I assume flat black for primer. Airbrush, regular brush, spray can?

Any flat black work, or do you use the same brand of your finish paints?

Brushes? I only had the white testers that I cut off bristles to make a fine brush. Let me know what to look for/into.

Best way to remove paint off previously painted figs. Lacquer thinner, isopropyl alcohol?

Tia
 
Always good to get the brushes back out!

We've a few threads on stripping models - if they are metal then to be honest it's hard to really screw up and what solvent you use is probably quite dependent on where in the world you live. Plastics and resins you do need to be more careful with your choice of stripper. Have a scoot over these threads: https://forum.oldhammer.org/tags/paint-stripping/

Not that I've used Tamiya paints (okay I have the odd one), but don't they have both acrylic and enamel ranges - which are you using? If it's acrylics then brush wise either modern synthetics or if you can spend a little more natural sable brushes (although again depending on location you might be more restricted). If it's the enamels then you're probably better off with synthetic brushes as they'll chew up the more expensive sable brushes quite quickly. In the UK if people don't want to spend too much, but want decent brushes I tend to suggest https://www.rosemaryandco.com/. I've various brushes from them. Otherwise brand wise my favourites would be Raphael 8404, Winsor & Newton Series 7, DaVinci series 36. Afraid I'm a total brush addict, ahem :) Some chatter in this thread: https://forum.oldhammer.org/threads/brushes.39419/

Any local art shop will have a modest range and there are plenty of online shops. Even the very cheap multipacks you get from the large online retailers and in the more bulk "hobby" type shops will probably be good enough to get you going again. They'll be synthetics, but if cleaned they'll be okay for a while (synthetics often loose their tip (often hooks over) after a while).

Wet palette and brush soap I'd highly recommend as painting accessories! Along with separate water (if you're using acrylics) for washing metallics and normal paints, to avoid ending up with some mica in the normal paint.

Priming is very much down to preference. Lots of people prime black then you don't have to worry too much about the bits you miss. Personally I find I'm often priming in greys these days. I do my priming with an airbrush, but that's only because I have one. I'm not sure I'd go out and buy an airbrush setup just for priming (unless you have an interest in them or have lots of stuff planned). If the climate isn't conducive to rattle can spray priming then an airbrush might make sense. Otherwise there are plenty of decent rattle cans. Either those from model manufacturers (Tamiya do one I've used in the past, but I seem to recall it's expensive for the quantity) or plenty of people use various automotive sprays (I use an etch primer on large resin vehicles for instance). There are brush on primers of course. Most of my paints are Vallejo ones, with a smattering of others here and there. I use their primers.

Anyhow looking forward to seeing your steps back in, maybe some before/after photos. No matter anyone's skill we all like seeing paint on models here so please do share!
 
Thanks for the info. I'll look into those threads.

Yes, planning on the acrylics.

I do have an air brush, I got a set up during covid to start painting fishing lures. By the time I got everything I was back in the office full time and haven't used it. Guess this will be a good excuse to learn how to use it.
 
Poundland matt black primer was my go-to for ages, but I don't know if they even exist any more. Shops can't afford to sell stuff for a pound in these grim days...

I can recommend Pro Arte Miniature Series. They hold a good point with a bit of tlc and if they splay a quick dip in boiling water is enough to restore them.
 
It's Vallejo black primer spray for me and Rosemary & co brushes (expensive, but the best I've tried once you get used to their longer points).
 
Yes, planning on the acrylics.
Then you've got plenty of choice brush wise. Personally I prefer natural hair, but nothing wrong with the synthetics and the ones Fimm suggests are good. I've a couple of #0 of those in my collection and tend to use them when I want a slightly stiffer brush for something. Worth noting the handles are fatter and triangular, you may like that or you may not! If there isn't a local art shop you can support then Jacksons sell them and they have various global stores a #0 (which I think of as my general painting brush) is about $5/£3.50

If you want natural hair then Kolinsky sable is the best, but assuming you don't want to jump into spending £15/$20 per brush then other sables and squirrel will be your best bet. I think the Rosemary & Co series 33are nice and a #0 is about £8 so about half what the higher end brushes would cost, but about twice the lowest cost of a natural brush. They do have a few distributors around the world. Otherwise sticking with the cheaper end of things, Pro Arte again do a couple of ranges of decent natural hair brushes - Pro Arte: Renaissance (about $6/£5 for #0) and Pro Arte: Series 3 Pure Sable (£4/$5 for #0), Jacksons do carry those again if you don't have a local store. I'd certainly get some brush soap if you are buying natural hair brushes - keeping them properly clean massively extends their lives and soap lasts for ages.

Forgot to say personally I find https://www.redgrasscreative.com/category/wet-palette/ to be very good. However nothing wrong with whatever is to hand - although it may take a while to get up to Golgfag's amazing palette.

I do have an air brush
In which case I'd use that to spray my primer on - my own choice are these https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/category/hobby/primers-en/
 
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Another question, I have some figs that are in pieces. Im thinking they need to be together when I paint them so transitions, etc are correct. The issue is I don't want to keep them glued together for storage. How do others handle this situation? Tia
 
I've got some Rosemary and co Series 33 brushes which are fine, but my workhorse 00 is losing bristles after less than a year, and my size 1 had a single long hair out the tip that made painting really hard but apparently artists like it as a guide? I know people say they're overpriced but I've had great joy with my Artis Opus ones. Apparently they're made by Rosemary and co. but I've just found them better. It may just be my bad luck with Rosemary and co. I've also got two Windsor and Newton but at £25 a pop, I barely dare use them 🤣

Absolutely definitely get brush soap though, to keep your brushes good for longer
 
I was looking at a modern 'carved' chopping board the other day.. £500 for a wood chopping board.. you wouldn't use it. not worth it at all for the quality carving.

same with Paint brushes. while you pay for quality, there is such a thing as 'too high a mark-up for the quality'.
 
I know people say they're overpriced but I've had great joy with my Artis Opus ones. Apparently they're made by Rosemary and co. but I've just found them better. It may just be my bad luck with Rosemary and co. I've also got two Windsor and Newton but at £25 a pop, I barely dare use them 🤣
It can be so hit and miss alas. My Artist Opus ones are "okay", but they are not as good as I was hoping for (they seem to like to split). My Series 33 are certainly "as good". I've one W&N Series 7 that just splits endlessly - no matter what I do with the wretched thing, but others that are lovely. Luck of the draw sometimes it seems.
 
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