Trolls and their Skin Conditions

Here are some pictures I just took of the Marauder Troll (1989 - MM40/3) and Aly Morrison's Warrior Troll (1987):

20140711_102407.jpg


The green Troll's unfortunate skin condition is best seen from the back.

20140711_102428.jpg


Anyway, more pictures of Trolls, and a discussion of my acne painting technique can be found at my new blog:

http://www.oldenhammer.blogspot.ca
 
I really like your painting, it somehow reminds me of mine but better looking :lol:
You have nice contrasts which improve the "readability" of your models. It 's also very refreshing to have varied skintones for the trolls. The acne on their skin would make any sane warrior reluctant to hitting them...
 
Man I've got one just like that on the top of my forehead at the moment. Really sore, I pity those poor trolls no wonder they arte always mad.
 
I think you got it correct on your blog; you have a talent for painting acne ;)

Particularly love the Marauder troll and the contracting skin and spot colours. I feel you need to pen a special rule about 'zit explosions' every time these fellas get hit.

Great stuff.
 
Thanks all for the feedback!

As far as Bulldoglopez's inquiry about the bases: I'd be happy to share my technique. To create the texture of the base, I always use textured acrylic medium, bought from an art supply store. I usually mix three different kinds of these mediums: extra-coarse pumice gel, coarse pumice gel and fine pumice gel (the brand I use is "Golden"). By mixing these three varieties, I can get the right variation in size of "stones" on the base. Sometimes I glue small pebbles onto the base when the gel is still wet (these small pebbles, of course, turn into the larger rocks on the base). I like using gels instead of gluing sand to the base because it gives me more control.

For some bases, I add other large features while the gel is still wet: sometime little twigs (to become dead shrubs) and sometime toadstools (made by rolling a minuscule amount of greenstuff around a piece of copper wire.

For these bases, I didn't use a dry blushing technique. Instead, I hand painted the highlights, starting with a dark mix of dark brown, beige and black, and working up to off-white. I still go back and forth about whether I like this technique. These days, I think I prefer a straight dry-brushing technique for the base, which I think can be more dramatic and certainly takes a lot less time. Large rocks are painted with a very dark grey, highlighting them up to a very light grey on the edges.

Then, of course, I load the base with a variety of goodies, mainly static grass and leaf/foliage cover. My favourite leaf cover is "1/35 scale brown leaves (autumn) JOEFIX 105". I tend to hand place the leafs because I am super-duper anal about achieving the right balance. These days, I am using less and less loose static grass, and more and more "Silfor tufts" (I always buy them from the Great Escape Games website). The pre-made tufts are so easy to use and create such a nice effect. That being said, there will always be a place for carefully applied spots of static grass.

Anyway, I hope this isn't too much detail for you!
 
I never thought about them being a mated pair, but I think you're right, Firebreather. In fact, here's something about the green one's top knot (and her smug expression) that reminds me of an ex-girlfriend of mine.
 
Back
Top