Press moulding
- Thread starter lenihan
- Start date
Bluey Zarzov
Vassal
I've seen a bit on press moulding with greenstuff, but it was only for sigils and relatively flat stuff.
I've tried sculpey and wax and plaster before, all with differering results.
It matters a good deal what you are trying to make.
I've tried sculpey and wax and plaster before, all with differering results.
It matters a good deal what you are trying to make.
Asslessman
Baron
I've tried many recipes so far but the best I've found are Cheetor's HERE.
Most people seem to use Oyumaru aka instant mould but Theottovonbismark here manages to do it with siligum. Oyumaru has 2 advantages : the name is fun and you can reuse it.
Procreate seems to be a good medium to pressmould but I haven't tried it before. I have tried Greenstuff and it works best when you make a yellowish mix (blue makes it too stiff). You can also consider miwing equal parts of milliput and Greens stuff for a result which has the advantages of both mediums (only downside is that the curing time is far much longer from what I've seen).
Here are 2 posts I worte to report my experience :
Part 1
Part 2
Most people seem to use Oyumaru aka instant mould but Theottovonbismark here manages to do it with siligum. Oyumaru has 2 advantages : the name is fun and you can reuse it.
Procreate seems to be a good medium to pressmould but I haven't tried it before. I have tried Greenstuff and it works best when you make a yellowish mix (blue makes it too stiff). You can also consider miwing equal parts of milliput and Greens stuff for a result which has the advantages of both mediums (only downside is that the curing time is far much longer from what I've seen).
Here are 2 posts I worte to report my experience :
Part 1
Part 2
theottovonbismark
Baron
It depends on exactly you are trying to do with pressmoulding. The term covers a few different things. As Asslessman mentioned Cheetors stuff covers Oyumaru pretty well. I don't have any direct experience with it myself but I think it seems to do a decent job for certain applications from what I have seen.
You might want to know about pressmoulding armour for example:
http://sciborminiatures.com/en_,sculpting.php?id=571
http://wappellious.blogspot.ie/p/step-b ... kings.html
Specifically for press moulds with green stuff I use Gildeo Siligum. For example, if I have a part that is flat on it's rear plane, such as a shield face, I would take a cylinder of siligum on a smooth black plastic base and gently press the object into it so that the edge of the siligum just comes parallel to the rim of the shield and leave it to dry for 10 minutes. Once it has cured I remove the shield and then measure out a tiny bit more green stuff than the size of the object I want to cast. Next I gently press this into the mould so that it is massaged into the detail. Finallly I take a size 6 soft silicon clay shaper and I smooth the exposed the green stuff down to make it flat and to put enough energy into the back of the thing to make sure it gets into the detail. I never handle the silicon mould directly - always touch only the plastic base when the green stuff is in there as it is easy to warp the green stuff out of position.
What type of thing are you trying to copy?
You might want to know about pressmoulding armour for example:
http://sciborminiatures.com/en_,sculpting.php?id=571
http://wappellious.blogspot.ie/p/step-b ... kings.html
Specifically for press moulds with green stuff I use Gildeo Siligum. For example, if I have a part that is flat on it's rear plane, such as a shield face, I would take a cylinder of siligum on a smooth black plastic base and gently press the object into it so that the edge of the siligum just comes parallel to the rim of the shield and leave it to dry for 10 minutes. Once it has cured I remove the shield and then measure out a tiny bit more green stuff than the size of the object I want to cast. Next I gently press this into the mould so that it is massaged into the detail. Finallly I take a size 6 soft silicon clay shaper and I smooth the exposed the green stuff down to make it flat and to put enough energy into the back of the thing to make sure it gets into the detail. I never handle the silicon mould directly - always touch only the plastic base when the green stuff is in there as it is easy to warp the green stuff out of position.
What type of thing are you trying to copy?
Asslessman
Baron
Oh then I think Oyumaru plus a miilput + GS mix will be the fastest way. You can also consider siligum and resin casting which would be very easy in that case (less chance to have bubbles when you can just shake the mould a little to remoe them plus you can actually remove them with a toothpick since yo can see them.
theottovonbismark
Baron
Asslessman":3b6yty4p said:
Yeah, start with Oyumaru, cheapest option to skill up on.
If I was doing shields I might even be tempted to sculpt a wood grain into the back of the GS.
Asslessman
Baron
theottovonbismark":2rr187te said:
Yep, smart move, while it cures, just imprint some nice lines to make a wood gran effect. Otherwise you can stick a thin P-card sheet since making wood grain on P-card has got to be one of the most easy things.
Wheeling Turn
Vassal
I never used press moulds. I prefer air vulcanising rubber silicone.
For half moulds like your shield designs try casting them with dental plaster. This needs cheeper silicone and dental plaster is quite hard when dry.
Maybe this is also possible with press moulding rubber like blue stuff.
When casting things that have designs on both sides like complete shields you create it is best to cast in metal. Here you need heat resistant rubber and a mould out of two halves. Do not use cheap metal as this has a quite hight melting point and ruins the mould faster then low temperature metal.
On a whole this only counts when needing larger amounds of casts. Small numbers are better sculpted or try press moulding as the silicone rubber and tools needed are a small investment.
For half moulds like your shield designs try casting them with dental plaster. This needs cheeper silicone and dental plaster is quite hard when dry.
Maybe this is also possible with press moulding rubber like blue stuff.
When casting things that have designs on both sides like complete shields you create it is best to cast in metal. Here you need heat resistant rubber and a mould out of two halves. Do not use cheap metal as this has a quite hight melting point and ruins the mould faster then low temperature metal.
On a whole this only counts when needing larger amounds of casts. Small numbers are better sculpted or try press moulding as the silicone rubber and tools needed are a small investment.
area23
Vassal
Here's how I did my space skaven:
http://area-23.blogspot.it/2013/03/the- ... lding.html
http://area-23.blogspot.it/2013/03/the- ... lding.html