Olean goes goblin green

olean

Member
Well, this is the project that got my enthousiasm for painting back after a long, slow period. I had done ten of these excellent Kev Adams goblins a couple of years ago, intending to use them for rpg sessions. Then I got a sudden urge to paint some more during christmas, and before I knew it the whole project had expanded into the core of a small army that I managed to paint in four weeks time. Wohoo!

The large regiment is made up mainly of metal models by the Goblinmaster himself from blisters by Alternative Armies and Harlequin that I have picked up on the cheap over the last few years, both at Arcane, the excellent second hand game store in Stockholm, and from BlacK Tree Design when they had one of their 50 % off sales. I have stuck a few old plastic Citadel goblins in there also, slightly modified, and I intend to add some more of these using the older plastics from the fantasy regiments box and the 4th ed starter set.

The key for me is to settle on a quick and easy painting recipe when I embark on a project, as I have too little time to spend on this hobby (don't we all...) The look I was aiming for was inspired by the greenskins in the picture on the back cover of the 1st ed WFRP book - quite pale and stark looking. To achieve this look, as well as save time, I decided to use washes as my main tool. I undercoated all non-armour parts with white (I use Lukas acrylic paints for this - they cover amazingly well and dry quite matte) and then washed the whole miniature with Army Painter Dark Tone wash (similar to Badab black), using the brush to make sure that there wasn't too much black wash on the skin parts. When this was dry, I washed the skin bits with Thraka green and other bits (wood, leather) with different brown washes. That's basically it- super fast and still gives a nice result. Bases where covered with sand, washed with water/paint/PVA mix and drybrushed with white. I'll add some brownish static grass eventually. Here is the result so far (some shields still missing and the banner needs a motif):

goblin%202.jpg


In addition to the main regiment (that will eventually be split into two) I also painted up 20 of the classic Marauder Wolf riders, also missing shields right now:

goblin%203.jpg


Some hitting power in the form of two giants - excellent old school sculpts that are now sold by Splintered Light miniatures. I bought two identical ones and converted one of them by cutting and bending the arms a bit so that they look dissimilar enough:

goblin%204.jpg


Army shot:

goblin%201.jpg


On the workbench there are currently 20 more Kev Adams goblins, this time from Crooked Claw miniatures (where I suspect I will be buying several new units this year, for example the excellent trebuchet and catapult). Also two converted/scratch built Lead Belcher organ guns that will be used as bolt throwers when playing 8th ed WFB games. I am also going to scratch build a couple of Snotling Pump Wagons - I have lots of old snotlings and just aquired the rest of the bits I need for this.

Hopefully I'll get to play a game or two with these guys soon, and also find the time to add the reinforcements I have planned...
 

Galadrin

Member
Absolutely stunning. I *love* this colour scheme. I have some of the BTD Night Goblins and the Splintered Light giant and have to agree that they go perfect with older Warhammer figures.
 

Thantsants

Member
Oh yeah! Loving the look you've gone for your Gobbo horde. 8-)

Currently looking for alternative wolf mounts for my Marauder wolf riders, but yours certainly look the business!
 

Thantsants

Member
Oh yeah! Loving the look you've gone for your Gobbo horde. 8-)

Currently looking for alternative wolf mounts for my Marauder wolf riders, but yours certainly look the business!
 

Chico

Member
Yup big fan... must resist starting up my Greenskins again.. far too many other projects to do first
 

olean

Member
Thanks for all the praise! I realise now that it is somewhat difficult to see exactly what the finished miniatures look like, so I'll try and get a decent closeup of one or two later.

Galadrin":1e8428sw said:
I have some of the BTD Night Goblins and the Splintered Light giant and have to agree that they go perfect with older Warhammer figures.

Yes, I agree! I was so happy when I found that giant, and it was quite cheap, too. Excellent, classic miniature.


mbh":1e8428sw said:
Is it possible I have seen pics of a skaven army from you?

Not yet ;)
 

Asslessman

Member
Impressive and very good lokking, is there any chance we might get WIP shots, I'm always intersted in such speed-apinting techniques and your seems brilliant !
The choice of colours is also a very good one, I'm looking at a Blanche drawing !
 

olean

Member
Asslessman":266u4uew said:
is there any chance we might get WIP shots, I'm always intersted in such speed-apinting techniques and your seems brilliant !

Yes, I'll try and get som WIPs done when I paint the next batch of gobbos!
 

mbh

Member
olean":tfgl8boq said:
Asslessman":tfgl8boq said:
is there any chance we might get WIP shots, I'm always intersted in such speed-apinting techniques and your seems brilliant !

Yes, I'll try and get som WIPs done when I paint the next batch of gobbos!


I've tried this method in the past but my stuff never looked as nice as your goblins. I would love to master this technique.
 

olean

Member
As promised, here is a quick step-by-step of how I paint my goblins. This is the cleaned up, based and undercoated starting point (miniature by Crooked Claw):

goblin%20d.jpg


I actually use two different types of undercoat, depending on the miniature. If it is mainly armour and weapons, I'll just wash it with warm, soapy water and when it's dry undercoat the non-metal bits with Lukas acrylic white using a brush. If there are more non-metal than metal areas, I'll give it a spray coat of Skull white and then paint the metal areas mithril silver with a brush. This is because the spray undercoat sticks better and makes the paint less likely to come off during handling.

goblin%20e.jpg


Then the whole thing is washed with Badab black or Army Painter dark tone. As soon as I have covered the whole miniature, I'll go over the skin areas with the brush again and swipe off most of the wash while it's still wet, so that they are quite a bit lighter than other parts - this is so that the skin tone will be light enough later on.

goblin%20c.jpg


This skin has now been washed with Thraka green (or the Army Painter green wash equivalent). I discovered that I prefered the results when I used the green wash sparingly, as I wanted a quite bleak skin tone. If I used too much, the green became too vibrant for my tastes.

goblin%20b.jpg


Here the other areas have been washed with hues of brown. I don't fuss too much with this bit, as I feel that the main look and feel of the whole army springs from the contrast between the 1) green skin, 2) rough metal and 3)everything else which is sort of a blurred background to the main two colours.

goblin%20a.jpg


Lastly, I do a quick spot of detailing, working over the whole unit at once. I paint the teeth white and then give them a black wash for contrast, dot the eyes with bright red (Lukas acrylics again) and then do "other bits" that need a little extra something - here it's the fur cape that has been given a quick white drybrush.

That's basically it. All in all, I think I spend more time first preparing and in the end doing the bases than I actually spend painting these goblins. As I do them in units of ten or so as I am working through the steps, it really is quite ridiculous how fast I can dab on the wash. For the minimal time invested, I really feel that the end result is quite good.
 

mbh

Member
thank you for the details

I'm really wondering if this would work with skaven. I think not having the green o contrast woud be a problem.


must keep searching for a way to speed paint rats...
 

phreedh

Member
It would work without problems, mbh... =)

Get some matte medium and go to town! The thing is, you don't have to limit yourself to washes and inks. After giving the whole model a wash of black, you can use different browns and skin tones to tint them with. Other colours (any paint) can be used for clothing. Just add a lot of water to your paints, and matte medium. It will make the paints translucent, but help keep the paint viscosity the way you want it.
 

olean

Member
Sorry I haven't replied. I am suddenly facing some severe real life issues, and I don't know when I will be back here posting updates. But I will be back eventually - see you all then.
 

ardyer

Member
olean":3o450asw said:
Sorry I haven't replied. I am suddenly facing some severe real life issues, and I don't know when I will be back here posting updates. But I will be back eventually - see you all then.

Sorry to hear that. If there is anything we can do to help out, let us know. Good luck!
 
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