Its Goblin Skin, how hard can it be?

[Black Shuck (Ben)]

After deciding that my goblin spears are going on the old style regiment bases (thanks to Manicman for creating some 3d printable ones) I am now at that point, where many have no doubt been before, I need to sort out a decent skin tone. I'm definitely going for the yellow/green look and I have fished out the old combat cards for inspiration. I will share my efforts.

 

[chrisgoodone]

Fab! Bring back Bilious Green!

 

[Eric]

Good stuff. I use the Model Color 70.954 for my final highlights on my gobs although I probably never take the highlights high enough to really get the old school look.

 

[Fimm McCool]

Lots of Citadel yellow ink to glaze!

 

[Slave to Darkness]

What non GW paints would you recommend for Orc/Gobbo skin? Any particular brands better than others?

 

[KingOfTheLeadPile]

I recently switched to using Golden SoFlat acrylics. Are they any better than others, or even the best?

Well, it depends

I currently prefer them because:

Creamy consistency, which can easily be thinned down to whatever I currently need.

Single pigment colours, makes for more predictable mixing.

Not that many colours compared to other ranges, forces me to mix and therefore think more about colours.


Since I started using these, I painted models with as few as four colours (like Zorn palette), mixing a lot of tones.


For goblin skin, they got some nice greens and yellows, and purple. So everything you would need


Alternatively, there is an orc skin set from AK Interactive, which I heard good things about.

 

[MichaelStockin]

I have not painted many but I currently use GW Warboss Green as the base.





For the highlights I mix in GW Moot Green.

For the shadows I mix in Coat d'rms Russian Green 530.

I just tend to use what I have to hand.

Not very yellow at all to be fair though.

 

[Black Shuck (Ben)]

Cushnob Crueleyes became my guinea gobbo. It's a little bit yellower in real life, I will by a camera one day and stop using my old phone. I'm happy with the outcome and it was very quick and easy, this is a new army project so I need to be realistic

 

[MichaelStockin]

Looks fine:

. I'm happy with the outcome and it was very quick and easy, this is a new army project so I need to be realistic

This is a factor for many, balancing all the elements.

 

[Fimm McCool]

A major factor for my night gobbo army! This is Foundry 28A as a base, washed with Army Painter Soft Tone, highlighted with Foundry 28C and then Vallejo Dead Flesh, washed with Citadel Yellow Ink (original Expert Paint set version!).

 

[Black Shuck (Ben)]

I used Foundry too, my gobbo is just Phlegm green triad with Floundy yellow light 2C added to the final highlight,

 

[MichaelStockin]

Sorry for the tangent insertion...

Do Foundry mostly cover well, and are they prone to changing the formula every 2 minutes?

 

[Black Shuck (Ben)]

I bought all my foundry paints years ago and haven't bought any replacements. They are designed to go over a black undercoat and I have never had any problems.

 

[Black Shuck (Ben)]

I bought all my foundry paints years ago and haven't bought any replacements. They are designed to go over a black undercoat and I have never had any problems.

The brave looking archer in my profile pic is all foundry paints

 

[Slave to Darkness]

May try their paints, got my eye on some of their minis so might as well grab a few paints as well.

 

[Fimm McCool]

Do Foundry mostly cover well, and are they prone to changing the formula every 2 minutes?

I pretty much exclusively use them and my only complaint is that the pot lids frequently break so the paint dries up before I finish the bottle. Keep a supply of spare lids to hand and they'll last ages. I got the starter set about 13 years ago and I have maybe replaced half a dozen of the colours I use most.