Gold paint replacement

dazza36

dazza36

Lord
Hoping someone can help me.

I need a replacement for my nearly gone pot of citadel 'shining Gold paint. I looked at a paintchart which suggested 'gehenna's Gold but when it turned up I found it was way more orange ! From looking on GW site they do a couple of other golds Liberator and Auric. Ideally I would look in person but have nowhere nearby that sells GW paint. So if anyone can suggest which would be closest I'd very very grateful
 
Are you referring to the old shining gold that had a green tint? If so, the closest I've found is Vallejo Model Color Old Gold.
 
No not the original, the version before the last GW paint change. Which I then add green to try and recreate the original version LOL.

I'm not a fan of vallejo metalics which is why I'm looking at the GW versions and hoping one of them is a close match.
 
Great topic. I’ve got the same question but for a different shining gold . . .

ardyer":3orn9g22 said:
Are you referring to the old shining gold that had a green tint? If so, the closest I've found is Vallejo Model Color Old Gold.
Click to expand...

Ardyer, would that be the old hexpot shining gold? I’m low on mine and dread finding a replacement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Orjetax":2cpzi5z9 said:
Great topic. I’ve got the same question but for a different shining gold . . .

ardyer":2cpzi5z9 said:
Are you referring to the old shining gold that had a green tint? If so, the closest I've found is Vallejo Model Color Old Gold.
Click to expand...

Ardyer, would that be the old hexpot shining gold? I’m low on mine and dread finding a replacement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yea, the old flip top hex pot. It's not a perfect match. It's a little darker and a tad less green than I remember the old shining gold being. But I ran out of that in the 90s so my memory might not be 100% accurate.
 
ardyer":28yp9rju said:
Orjetax":28yp9rju said:
Great topic. I’ve got the same question but for a different shining gold . . .

ardyer":28yp9rju said:
Are you referring to the old shining gold that had a green tint? If so, the closest I've found is Vallejo Model Color Old Gold.
Click to expand...

Ardyer, would that be the old hexpot shining gold? I’m low on mine and dread finding a replacement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yea, the old flip top hex pot. It's not a perfect match. It's a little darker and a tad less green than I remember the old shining gold being. But I ran out of that in the 90s so my memory might not be 100% accurate.
Click to expand...

The shining gold I want was the one after the hex bottle which when added with some bright green was bear identical to the hex one. I'm really wanting to stick with GW so again does anyone know if the 2 colours I mentioned at start are a close match to either the first 2 versions of shining gold.
 
I find the army painter Range a close match. They have “greedy gold” that sounds close to what you want
 
Funnily enough, there is a newsagent/model shop near me which sells citadel hexpot paints. Many of them look suspiciously like they are dried up though. They also have on the shelves a very outdated set of warhammer 40k in Italian :lol: I think they have a very low turnover of stock.
 

⏲ Please note there was roughly a 7¼ year gap between these posts ...

In the case of dried up citadel colour acrylic paints, add some 91% isopropyl alcohol to release the cross-linked bonds and then a bit of water once reliquefied.
 

⚠ Please note that until the post above this thread had been inactive for about 7¼ years ...

windscreen wiper fluid is using Isopropyl alcohol? well.. If its a weak 91% maybe then.. I use 99.9% stuff myself ^_^;
 
It'll be 30-50% something like that, doubt it'll be any more, and could be ethanol, or isopropyl or methanol I expect. You might also get ethylene glycol in there as well if it's one designed for particularly low temperatures (always a big worry for us cat owners at this time of year since ethylene glycol I is very toxic to the fluffy ones). The alcohol is there both as a solvent and as a bit of an antifreeze agent, so you'll probably see the higher concentrations in "cold weather" mixes. Most of the rest of the mix is going to be water and some soaps, colouring and maybe something to make it smell like it'll clean stuff.

Isopropyl is back down to much more reasonable prices once again so I'd just buy a bottle and use it up slowly and avoid the surfactants and other crud that'd be in windscreen washer fluid. It'll be purer and it's useful generally in model making and cleaning, so well worth having the odd litre around. I tend to buy mine from CFS, but there are plenty of places you can get it.
 
Merry Christmas to all and good day!
My interest is in this topic….
I have been collecting and painting Citadel miniatures for a very long time now, since the early eighties. The Skaven and Bretonnian armies were the first that I started collecting, then Chaos Warriors once I was hooked.
I read my first White Dwarf magazine in the early nineties, this was the first Warhammer 40000 introduction.
My 40k collection consists of Ultramarines, World Eaters, Plague Marines, Night Lords, Space Wolves, Imperial Assassins, Black Templars, the Black Legion, Tyranids and the Mechanicus. I also have several Warhammer fantasy armies: Bretonnians, Skaven, Chaos Dwarves, Chaos Warriors and some Beastmen.
The original Citadel Colour hexagonal 17.5 ml paint pots were what most of my early miniatures were painted with and since then the flip top, screw top and now domed top pots are all being used.
As you all have probably figured out by now, acrylic paints can dry out over time, even in a sealed container.
As mentioned glycol will loosen up the cross-linked bonds in dried paint, however the glycerin can adversely impact adhesion in re-liquefied paint.
Isopropyl alcohol at 91% potency will not only break up the dried paint but will also cause the binder to reactivate and with the addition of clean water as a solvent. Water will not melt the dried binder just thin out the “cracked bits”
The first time the paint is thinned, an acrylic dryng retardant could also be added to prevent pigment flop.
I worked in a bodyshop for 30 years and have some experience with paint, mixing and solvents :)
 
Here are a sample from my paints along with the drying retardant.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4524.jpeg
    IMG_4524.jpeg
    1,014.7 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_4525.jpeg
    IMG_4525.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 4
  • IMG_4526.jpeg
    IMG_4526.jpeg
    1,023.6 KB · Views: 3
Strangely I haven’t tried to match any comparable colour ranges other than a cheapy set that was bought from the craft store chain Michaels, That was some time ago. I wasn’t really sure which brand would have close colour formulas (and longevity). Just imagine buying another range of paints and then in the middle of painting an army they go out of business or something crazy!
If anyone can relate, some of my miniatures have taken years upon years to complete.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top